| C H I N A OCTOBER, 2002 |
One of the places I most wanted to tread was Tiananmen Square.
Having read the book Mandate of Heaven by Orville Schell, I
wanted to feel and sense and envision the ghosts from the past that
inhabit this gargantuan plot of land. What I saw was the creation of
ugliness in a place that historically was the center of Beijing and the
gateway to the Forbidden City. Given the tragedy of the student-led
short-lived deadly revolt of 1989, it is only appropriate that
Tiananmen Square should emanate a soullessness and the sterility of
dictatorial bureaucracy. The attempt to falsely beautify it with flags,
flowers and flowing water falls flat when one recreates the vision of
a tent city, army tanks and dead bodies watching student leaders
shouting for human rights from the high gateway to the Forbidden
Having read the book Mandate of Heaven by Orville Schell, I
wanted to feel and sense and envision the ghosts from the past that
inhabit this gargantuan plot of land. What I saw was the creation of
ugliness in a place that historically was the center of Beijing and the
gateway to the Forbidden City. Given the tragedy of the student-led
short-lived deadly revolt of 1989, it is only appropriate that
Tiananmen Square should emanate a soullessness and the sterility of
dictatorial bureaucracy. The attempt to falsely beautify it with flags,
flowers and flowing water falls flat when one recreates the vision of
a tent city, army tanks and dead bodies watching student leaders
shouting for human rights from the high gateway to the Forbidden
City--the ever-hanging picture ofChairman Mao as a backdrop. At the
other end of the square, there was a long line of people waiting their
turns to view the perserved body of Mao. Soldiers are everywhere.
On either side of the square stand architecturally disastrous state
buildings. In spite of all of this, there is a sense of being in a grand
and significant place. The size alone guarantees such a feeling. I
would guess that thousands of people were there when we were and
yet it appeared almost empty.Passing under the picture of Mao hung
over the Gateway to Heavenly Peace leading into the Forbidden City
is the perfect juxtaposition of time and history. So many novels have
other end of the square, there was a long line of people waiting their
turns to view the perserved body of Mao. Soldiers are everywhere.
On either side of the square stand architecturally disastrous state
buildings. In spite of all of this, there is a sense of being in a grand
and significant place. The size alone guarantees such a feeling. I
would guess that thousands of people were there when we were and
yet it appeared almost empty.Passing under the picture of Mao hung
over the Gateway to Heavenly Peace leading into the Forbidden City
is the perfect juxtaposition of time and history. So many novels have
been set here--historical and fiction”that one erroneously expects to be familiar with it. Not so! One immediately
transports to an unimaginable world of beauty, intrigue, complexity and ritual. The emperors and courts that inhabited
this place did so in isolation from the country and people whom they ruled with absolute authority. There are many
palaces, court rooms, throne rooms, areas for concubines and eunuchs, pavilions and unidentified structures, all
surrounded by walls and pavements that go several feet deep underground to forestall enemies and spies. Imagining
political conniving, plotting, sinister meetings and romantic trysts comes naturally in this setting. Many rooms display
properties of the emperors and empresses--exquisite and fragile testimony to the skill of long ago artisans. At one point
we were intrigued by the still used bamboo scaffolding constructed by workmen who were repairing the buildings. As
with many things in China, modern convenience, machinery and methods are still overshadowed by traditional,
seemingly time-warped methods.
transports to an unimaginable world of beauty, intrigue, complexity and ritual. The emperors and courts that inhabited
this place did so in isolation from the country and people whom they ruled with absolute authority. There are many
palaces, court rooms, throne rooms, areas for concubines and eunuchs, pavilions and unidentified structures, all
surrounded by walls and pavements that go several feet deep underground to forestall enemies and spies. Imagining
political conniving, plotting, sinister meetings and romantic trysts comes naturally in this setting. Many rooms display
properties of the emperors and empresses--exquisite and fragile testimony to the skill of long ago artisans. At one point
we were intrigued by the still used bamboo scaffolding constructed by workmen who were repairing the buildings. As
with many things in China, modern convenience, machinery and methods are still overshadowed by traditional,
seemingly time-warped methods.
| Inside the Forbidden City |
Other sites on the tourist route which we followed were: The Temple of Heaven, Summer Palace and Temple of
Earth. The Summer Palace grounds are extensive and beautifully conceived and maintained, including a large lake
with majestic dragon boats and the famous marble boat of Empress Cixi. At the Temple of Earth we had a private tea
ceremony in a pretty little teahouse. It was interesting to learn of the techniques and processes used in the drinking of
tea.
Earth. The Summer Palace grounds are extensive and beautifully conceived and maintained, including a large lake
with majestic dragon boats and the famous marble boat of Empress Cixi. At the Temple of Earth we had a private tea
ceremony in a pretty little teahouse. It was interesting to learn of the techniques and processes used in the drinking of
tea.
Our final day in Beijing was one we thoroughly enjoyed as it was different from the others and gave us the
opportunity to experience a small corner of today's city. We began by taking a pedicab tour of one of the Houtongs.
Houtongs are ancient living areas of Beijing, going back hundreds of years to the dynasty periods. Our guide explained
the history of the community and its changes over the years. The structures have not changed since they
opportunity to experience a small corner of today's city. We began by taking a pedicab tour of one of the Houtongs.
Houtongs are ancient living areas of Beijing, going back hundreds of years to the dynasty periods. Our guide explained
the history of the community and its changes over the years. The structures have not changed since they
We visited a Houtong family home where we were served tea and refreshments while
our guide explained the lifestyle. The home was renovated inside and was really quite
our guide explained the lifestyle. The home was renovated inside and was really quite
nice in contrast to the exteriors. The government
does not allow changes to be made to the ancient
character of the exteriors but remodeling inside is
permissible and encouraged.. The woman whose
home it was did not speak English but she was very
warm and welcoming as she filled our teacups and
encouraged us to try the nuts, fruits and candy. She
graciously showed us through her home. Outside the
door were hung the picturesque bird cages that are
so evocative of China. No trip to Beijing would be
complete without visiting one of these few remaining
Houtong areas.They are living testimony of the
past--not empty relics and buildings.They are vibrant
and alive. Interestingly, people are choosing to move
does not allow changes to be made to the ancient
character of the exteriors but remodeling inside is
permissible and encouraged.. The woman whose
home it was did not speak English but she was very
warm and welcoming as she filled our teacups and
encouraged us to try the nuts, fruits and candy. She
graciously showed us through her home. Outside the
door were hung the picturesque bird cages that are
so evocative of China. No trip to Beijing would be
complete without visiting one of these few remaining
Houtong areas.They are living testimony of the
past--not empty relics and buildings.They are vibrant
and alive. Interestingly, people are choosing to move
back into them--similar to American's moving back to downtown area.After decades
of not being allowed to value their heritage and history, people are now being
encouraged to reclaim and find pride in it. Many are choosing to do this.
of not being allowed to value their heritage and history, people are now being
encouraged to reclaim and find pride in it. Many are choosing to do this.
From here we went to the Silk Market, which has nothing to do with silk. It is a stationary vendors area where you can
buy knock-offs of almost anything you might want--clothing, suitcases, watches, antiques, jewelry, shoes, whatever. I
bought a "North Face" jacket for $24 and an "Adidas"sport watch. My watch had broken and not knowing the time
drove me crazy.
buy knock-offs of almost anything you might want--clothing, suitcases, watches, antiques, jewelry, shoes, whatever. I
bought a "North Face" jacket for $24 and an "Adidas"sport watch. My watch had broken and not knowing the time
drove me crazy.
Although we NEVER, NEVER, NEVER set foot in a MacDonalds or any other American place while traveling, I must
admit we did rejoice over our coffee at Starbucks. The latte hit the spot and gave us a chance to sit and relax after our
strenuous bargaining in the Silk Market.
There are a couple of other things one must do in Beijing--sample Peking Duck and go to the Peking Opera. We have
now done both. Unfortunately, the duck was a major disappointment as our guide did not take us to the right place and
the opera, while interesting, was not a trip highlight but, glad we went.
admit we did rejoice over our coffee at Starbucks. The latte hit the spot and gave us a chance to sit and relax after our
strenuous bargaining in the Silk Market.
There are a couple of other things one must do in Beijing--sample Peking Duck and go to the Peking Opera. We have
now done both. Unfortunately, the duck was a major disappointment as our guide did not take us to the right place and
the opera, while interesting, was not a trip highlight but, glad we went.
| BEIJING PART 2 |
housed the important people in the employ of the emperors but now
many people live in a house which was for just one family in the
past. The area is very convoluted with narrow alley-ways, common
walls, shared toilet facilities, old doorways and the appearance of
being dirty.
Along the way we had the chance to tryout the exercise equipment
found in the alleyways. These along with play-ground equipment for
children are simply placed along the pathways for people to use,
which they do. Ken and Dawn sampled the equipment and reported
that it was quite good. At one place there was a mother with her
adorable little boy sitting on a teeter-totter. With the mother's
permission, I snapped a good picture.
many people live in a house which was for just one family in the
past. The area is very convoluted with narrow alley-ways, common
walls, shared toilet facilities, old doorways and the appearance of
being dirty.
Along the way we had the chance to tryout the exercise equipment
found in the alleyways. These along with play-ground equipment for
children are simply placed along the pathways for people to use,
which they do. Ken and Dawn sampled the equipment and reported
that it was quite good. At one place there was a mother with her
adorable little boy sitting on a teeter-totter. With the mother's
permission, I snapped a good picture.