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| Highlights and Selective Memories |
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| The Mosaics of Ravenna dazzle the eye and leave one amazed. We had been to Italy many times but, inexcusably, had never been to Ravanna--good intentions several times but always made other decisions. The redeeming value in those decisions was that this time we had a whole new wonderful treat to experience--and what a treat! The mosaics are beautiful in design, color and execution. One can only marvel at the craftsmanship so apparent in each little nuance in an overall presentation--be it scenes |
| The newest find is the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra or The Domus of Stone Carpets. The Domus is 3 meters below the road level and consists of gorgeous floor mosaics of a "magnificent Byzantine palace dating back to the 6th century AD." The pavements are decorated with geometrical, floral and figurative patterns "considered as unique and completely different from any classical Christian representation." They are absolutely lovely and one only wishes to have seen the richness of the whole palace in its days of glory and grandeur. |
| GARFAGNANA: I have written about this delightful unsung area of Italy in the recommendation section (here); but, when I think about highlights of this trip, Garfagnana cannot be omitted. The exquisite pristine loveliness and beauty of the area make for wonderful visual memories. The little, picturesque villages hanging in air defy you to ignore them. The advantage of what many of us call "Slow Travel"--the practice of renting villas or apartments for several days or weeks--is that you have time to find and do things that other styles of travel typically disallow. This time we were in Lucca long enough to explore and experience the more untamed, less traveled country around it. But--we just got a taste of it--not enough to satisfy--so now we have reason to return to Lucca (as if reason were needed.) I should include that this day we hired a wonderful woman to stay with Casey. This bought us a whole day to devote to our usual travel style--meandering back roads, exploring with little use of a map (until the point that we are totally lost), stopping when and where we want, savoring a leisurely lunch, enjoying silence punctuated by shareable observations. If this day were memorable for nothing else than a chance to be sans child, it would have found its way to this page. The prize was that the day was special in multiple ways. And for Casey it was special as while playing on the walls of Lucca he was "adopted" by a teacher and her students who then included Casey in their lessons and play. When we came home, he had little stickies with Italian words all over his shirt and was totally excited about his day. |
| 2003 |
GELATO--Of course, I hesitate to state the obvious--but what memoir of a trip to Italy would/could be complete without proper testimonial to the delights and pleasures of the sensual treat known as gelato. Sweet melone, limone, frutti de bosco; rich nocciola, cioccolato, zabaglione; delicious mango, pesca, albiocca, ananas, cocco, fragola--oh, how long is this list? The weather was hot--giving us guilt required justification for the third cone of the day. A mission of every traveler to Italy is to find the perfect gelato--so, passing by an untested gelateria is ample justification for stopping--to make sure you haven't missed perfection. The best this trip was at the Sorbetteria Dezli Esarchi in Ravenna; however, our all time very best--and maybe the place of perfection-- is at the Antica Delizia in Castellina in Chianti. For those who are interested in the story of gelato, you might enjoy this website What is Gelato ---- actually this is a commercial site, selling its wares, but there is some interesting information for we who are afficiendos of gelato. |
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| from courtlife, a religious motive, or animals of the forest and birds of the air. The 6th century Church of San Vitale presides over all not only with the richness and diversity of its mosaics but the Byzantium architecture of the church itself is worth making a detour to see. Right next to San Vitale is the 5th century Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. There are several other mosaic locations scattered throughout Ravenna. Each one offers something special and unique and awesome. |
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| Gondola Ride in Venice: Ken and I had never taken a gondola ride through the canals of Venice--thought it was a much too touristy thing to do. We saw the gondolas full of people, "sailing" on the Grand Canal or being serenaded as they passed the canal side restaurants in the evenings and it seemed tacky. But--in the effort to provide Casey with neat, child experiences, a gondola ride seemed "perfecto." So we did it! And---it was fun! Gliding through the side canals, looking up at the old Venetian homes, hearing the quietness of the backways, listening to the gondoleers shout "Ovay" as they approached watery blind intersections, seeing the oars silently glide through the water, imagining days of old, peering through rusty old doorways into entrances of abandoned buildings and watching the awe on Casey's face all made for memorable moments that I can picture as I write. I loved it when he confided to a woman standing by us: "In San Diego we call these canoes." Now, I recommend to all--take a gondola ride but avoid those that you stand in line to take on the Grand Canal. Look for the gondoleers stationed along the side canals. |
