Graecia cities of the 6th century B.C. The primary testament of this is the incredible Valle dei
Templi with the ruins of the Temples of Concord, Juno Hercules, Jove, Asklepius, Castor and
Pollux (Dioscuri) and other non-identified remnants. There is also an ancient Christian burial
ground here. Amazingly, the tourist is free to climb in and around these structures.
you will only need 2-3 hours to explore the area
--and for some even that would be too long. So--it
is easy to stop here as you make your way north (or
south as the case may be.) We were very happy to
have done it this way rather than backtrack from
Sciacca.
driving through an unknown Italian/Sicilian city at rush hour, following directions as to
where to turn. If you have driven in Italy, you know that although street names are
provided, it is the rare street that has a posted name or at least one that can be found.
We were headed for Verdetecniac where we had rented an apartment for 3 nights as we
used Sciacca for a base to explore this area of Sicily. Amazingly, without too much
difficulty, we did wend our way, past the stores, through the stoplights, around the
corners, up the hills to this unique retreat where we finally met the charming Pascale
and Salvatore. He is a landscape architect and Pascale is a woman of many talents. They
have created a very comfortable, at home place for international travelers. There is free
use of a computer with internet access, a library with substantial selections in several
languages, a welcome basket with all sorts of staples and fresh produce to help the guest
settle in right away and free laundry facilities. There is a small play area for children
plus board games and other toys.
of seafood in this part of Sicily. One day we had a great afternoon down at the port,
watching the boats come in and the crowds of buyers clamor around each boat as the catch
was unloaded. These buyers knew what they wanted and what was good and what wasn't.
Once they found what they wanted, the negotiating and bargaining that took place before
money exchanged hands and that night's menu was on its way to kitchens or stores was
fascinating to watch. We tried to get as close as we could to the action while managing to
stay out of the way--the curious foreigner was not going to be overly tolerated in this
process. Large refrigerator truck wait to load their haul to restaurants and markets around
the west coast and inland. People of Sicily do not like their fish even a day old.
decided to go our on our own for dinner--leaving Marc
and Casey with their Kraft mac and cheese.
Unfortunately, because we had no idea where we
going or how to get there and it was raining and it was
dark and the streets were at odd angles, we could not
even find the port. Finally, about the time we decided
to go home and eat whatever we could find, we stopped
and asked for help. And--we were treated to the
wonderful hospitality of Sicilians.
walking down the street and out of sight around the corner. Then I waited and waited and waited I had about decided that something bad had
happened and wondered what I would do next--but finally they reemerged. The man and taken Ken down the street to show him a restaurant he
recommended. So that is where we ate--and it was wonderful! The restaurant had only been open for two days and so not many people were
there--particularly in the rain. The food was superb, creative, fresh and, clearly, meticulously prepared. There was no menu but the food kept
coming--champagne, olives, balsamic marinated pearl onions, shrimp chips; a large antipasti with 6 dishes-shrimp-pineapple and corn kernels,
carpaccio, cozzi, eggplant fritters and more; pasta with lobster, spada (swordfish), wonderfully good gamberi, carved pineapple, cannelloni and
after dinner port. All of this for 53€ for the 2 of us! We raved about the meal so much that Pascale and Salvadore went there the next night.
Recommendation: U Cuttigghiu Hosteria, Cortile Bellanca, 16, T. 0925-81955
we found a back and circuitous route which meant that we happened upon little villages and
forks in the roads we would have missed if we had followed Salvadore's directions--our
problem, not his. Driving is always an adventure!--that's why we drive.
If you are not yet familiar with why you must go to Monreale--the reason is the lovely,
incredible, monumental, beautiful, stunning Monreale Duomo with its 12th century Biblical
cycle of mosaics covering all of the interior (it seems). The detail and richness is so
overwhelming that taking it all in is not possible--there is just too much for the mind and the
eye and the soul to absorb. The Christ in the apse is awesomely huge and imposing. The
cathedral is considered to be "one of the architectural wonders of the Middle Ages...one of the
greatest cathedrals in all of Italy." (Frommer's Sicily) Most travelers find their way here from
Palermo.
at Taverna del Pavone (Tavern of the Peacock.) We had
lunch there and it was outstanding. Although we
accidentally chose this place, we found in later reading
that it is very highly recommended by several sources.
But--we didn't need anyone to tell us it was a find. I had,
perhaps, the best, freshest fish (sole) I had in all of our
trip. It was so good! To find it, stand facing the cathedral
entrance, turn to your right and walk up the incline to a
little piazza. The trattoria is in the corner. Vicolo
Pensato, 18 T: 091-6406209
e-mail: info@tavernadelpavone.it Enjoy!
although, it has not survived the centuries as well as the Valle dei Templi, we found it evocative and mysterious.
There are some pillars and remnants standing which give an idea of the grandeur and magnitude of the temples
there; however, most of what was is now in heaps and piles of fallen and broken stones. Somehow, as you stand next
to upended capitols and jumbled blocks in their brokenness, the incredible feats of engineering and the
incomprehensible size of it all becomes even more real than when admiring the intact temples of Agrigento. One of
my favorite memories from here is hearing the jangle of bells and turning to see a herd of sheep moving through the
temple, down the steps and scattering below, shepherd watching over them.
At the site there are little jitneys that, for a fee, will take you out to the outer reaches and Temple C. Don't forgo
seeing this area. You can drive out but the jitney is better as you are able to see a variety of things on the way that
you would miss in the car and the driver provides interesting commentary. You can remain out there as long as you
like as the jitney returns at intervals.
place to visit. Here there are 1000's of faces carved out of the rock, lining walkways, benches and
walls. Many tree trunks have these faces carved into them. No face is alike and they were all carved
by the same man who is now dead. The story is that he left Italy to go to the United States where he
suffered a broken heart. He then returned, became what we would call a hermit, and spent the rest
of his life carving these faces. They became his friends and with them he talked out his loneliness.
It is a great place to take children as the faces are fascinating and there are walkways to climb and
places to wander. It was a nice break for Casey.
although, because it was raining most of the time that
we were there, we didn't get much of that done. There is
a large square with many pottery and other types of
shops surrounding it where we spent some time. We
found the port area the most interesting.
reputation, is a member of the international Slow Food movement and which
we enjoyed. The ambiance is rather elegant, the food is good and the
presentation is artistic. Ken had an excellent risotto with prawns,
mushrooms and vegetables and I had monk fish which was good but not
memorable. For dessert we had the chocolate/almond crepe with mild cream
and zucchini marmalade. Um-um-good! Vicolo Sammaraitano,10
T:0925-23071 e-mail: ninobentivegna@hostariadelvicolo.com
down at the port. Although, it is often recommended,
we did not enjoy our meals. It doesn't get our seal of
approval. But--maybe on another night it would have.
Travelogues/Photos
China, Peru,
Tanzania, Ecuador,
France, Spain
Portraits of Casey
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