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It rained in Lhasa and snowed in the Himalayas the night before we were going to Gandan Monastery high in the
mountains at 14000 feet, 65 km from Lhasa. The mountains were beautiful with cloud cover and snow. It was very
cold so my "North Face" jacket came in quite handy. Although snow was still falling and visibility was limited, it
was interesting watching the countryside--many Tibetans out working in fields, a rushing river, children going to
school, villages, yaks, cows, sheep pigs, dogs.
mountains at 14000 feet, 65 km from Lhasa. The mountains were beautiful with cloud cover and snow. It was very
cold so my "North Face" jacket came in quite handy. Although snow was still falling and visibility was limited, it
was interesting watching the countryside--many Tibetans out working in fields, a rushing river, children going to
school, villages, yaks, cows, sheep pigs, dogs.
Chinese soldiers were stationed in and around the various temples, checking and listening. In 1999, there was a great
confrontation between the government and the people over pictures of the Dali Lama in the temples and monastery.
Now no pictures of him are allowed and military police are based there to enforce this. I noticed one soldier,
patrolling the parking area, writing down the license plate of each car, bus and van.
We started "the circle" around the monastery but it was so high that breathing was difficult so I went back down as
Mr. Tashi continued with Ken and Dawn. I approached the Tibetan restaurant and for awhile just stood at the door
looking in. There were long wooden tables and benches and a dirt floor. It was crowded with pilgrims and Lhasa
Tibetans, eating noodles, drinking yak butter tea, resting from the exertion of the altitude. An absolutely fascinating
scene. There were no tourists there--not one! Our guide was sitting at a table with his men friends. I saw a window
slab large enough to sit on so decided to claim it and watch. No one was paying any attention to me or minded my
being there. In fact, I felt rather invisible which is strange since I stood out so much. Whole families of pilgrims were
there eating what food they had brought with them, using their own utensils. Some bought noodle dishes from the
"kitchen."
After a while a teenage girl came over to me and asked if I wanted to join her friends and her. Of course I did--what
an opportunity! We had a good time even though I speak no Tibetan or Chinese and she spoke very little English.
Sign language, pointing and key words worked well and we were soon friends. She and her three friends work in a
Lhasa western restaurant--pizza and such. They wanted us to come see them that evening but it meant a taxi ride
and we had to pack after dinner to leave in the morning.
They shared their sunflower seeds and Dove candy bars; we drank
yak butter tea together and had a good time. They were 17-20 and
expressed appropriate surprise when they found out I was 62--told
me I looked too young! They did offer to get me some noodle soup
from the kitchen but I didn't think that was a good idea. This place
was primitive and dirty. Dogs were running around the eating area,
food remnants covered the floor, tables were sticky and wet with
food and drink, smoke filled the room and dirty dishes were every-
where. I was the the only tourist there until Dawn and Ken returned.
When the others returned from "the circle", we opened our box lunches but none of us ate much. Just then a large
family of pilgrims, dressed in ragged clothes, bedraggled, tired and caked with dirt from their long jouney, came in.
They quietly went to a back corner of the room and sat on the floor
although by this time there were many empty tables. Dawn, Ken and
I pooled the remaining food and I took it over to them. They were so excited--
including mom and dad. Their faces beamed and their eyes sparkled--perhaps
with tears. There were apples, pears, bread, sausage, noodles, eggs and cake.
I am certain it was the most and best food they had in many days. They allowed
me to take pictures of them (with Dawn's camera as mine was back at the hotel.)
They were so happy!
We walked back to our van and watched as guides from other groups in buses distributed leftovers from the lunches
of their tourists. The women were giggling and laughing with appreciation. My notes say: "Interestingly, these other
tourists ate in the confines of their buses rather than experiencing Tibet. What a shame to be so timid and
unadventurous. This will be a favorite memory for us--especially for me because of my time alone in the restaurant,
my new young friends and the pilgrim family. Sometimes we have unique opportunities for enrichment--this was one
of those times."
On the way back down the mountain, the sun was shining, no clouds, blue sky. We were able to appreciate and see
things we did not even know existed on our way up. The view of the monastery was breathtaking. We stopped at
one place to take pictures and some little girls came running with outstretched hands. We gave them some yuan and
M and M's. Tsring asked the mother if we could visit her house and she was gracious in welcoming us. It was an
adobe type compound with a baby yak, chickens and other animals roaming the open space inside the walls. The
house inside consisted of a very simple and primitve kitchen although she did have an electic burner, a
living/bedroom and a prayer/bedroom. Although it had some old painted furniture, it was worn and dirty and yet you
could tell she took pride in her place as pictures adorned the walls and little decorations were on the cabinets.
The biggest disappointment of the day (and perhaps the entire journey) was that on the most fantastic photo op of
the trip, I had left the memory stick in my computer and so couldn't take pictures. See Pictures by Dawn
confrontation between the government and the people over pictures of the Dali Lama in the temples and monastery.
Now no pictures of him are allowed and military police are based there to enforce this. I noticed one soldier,
patrolling the parking area, writing down the license plate of each car, bus and van.
We started "the circle" around the monastery but it was so high that breathing was difficult so I went back down as
Mr. Tashi continued with Ken and Dawn. I approached the Tibetan restaurant and for awhile just stood at the door
looking in. There were long wooden tables and benches and a dirt floor. It was crowded with pilgrims and Lhasa
Tibetans, eating noodles, drinking yak butter tea, resting from the exertion of the altitude. An absolutely fascinating
scene. There were no tourists there--not one! Our guide was sitting at a table with his men friends. I saw a window
slab large enough to sit on so decided to claim it and watch. No one was paying any attention to me or minded my
being there. In fact, I felt rather invisible which is strange since I stood out so much. Whole families of pilgrims were
there eating what food they had brought with them, using their own utensils. Some bought noodle dishes from the
"kitchen."
After a while a teenage girl came over to me and asked if I wanted to join her friends and her. Of course I did--what
an opportunity! We had a good time even though I speak no Tibetan or Chinese and she spoke very little English.
Sign language, pointing and key words worked well and we were soon friends. She and her three friends work in a
Lhasa western restaurant--pizza and such. They wanted us to come see them that evening but it meant a taxi ride
and we had to pack after dinner to leave in the morning.
They shared their sunflower seeds and Dove candy bars; we drank
yak butter tea together and had a good time. They were 17-20 and
expressed appropriate surprise when they found out I was 62--told
me I looked too young! They did offer to get me some noodle soup
from the kitchen but I didn't think that was a good idea. This place
was primitive and dirty. Dogs were running around the eating area,
food remnants covered the floor, tables were sticky and wet with
food and drink, smoke filled the room and dirty dishes were every-
where. I was the the only tourist there until Dawn and Ken returned.
When the others returned from "the circle", we opened our box lunches but none of us ate much. Just then a large
family of pilgrims, dressed in ragged clothes, bedraggled, tired and caked with dirt from their long jouney, came in.
They quietly went to a back corner of the room and sat on the floor
although by this time there were many empty tables. Dawn, Ken and
I pooled the remaining food and I took it over to them. They were so excited--
including mom and dad. Their faces beamed and their eyes sparkled--perhaps
with tears. There were apples, pears, bread, sausage, noodles, eggs and cake.
I am certain it was the most and best food they had in many days. They allowed
me to take pictures of them (with Dawn's camera as mine was back at the hotel.)
They were so happy!
We walked back to our van and watched as guides from other groups in buses distributed leftovers from the lunches
of their tourists. The women were giggling and laughing with appreciation. My notes say: "Interestingly, these other
tourists ate in the confines of their buses rather than experiencing Tibet. What a shame to be so timid and
unadventurous. This will be a favorite memory for us--especially for me because of my time alone in the restaurant,
my new young friends and the pilgrim family. Sometimes we have unique opportunities for enrichment--this was one
of those times."
On the way back down the mountain, the sun was shining, no clouds, blue sky. We were able to appreciate and see
things we did not even know existed on our way up. The view of the monastery was breathtaking. We stopped at
one place to take pictures and some little girls came running with outstretched hands. We gave them some yuan and
M and M's. Tsring asked the mother if we could visit her house and she was gracious in welcoming us. It was an
adobe type compound with a baby yak, chickens and other animals roaming the open space inside the walls. The
house inside consisted of a very simple and primitve kitchen although she did have an electic burner, a
living/bedroom and a prayer/bedroom. Although it had some old painted furniture, it was worn and dirty and yet you
could tell she took pride in her place as pictures adorned the walls and little decorations were on the cabinets.
The biggest disappointment of the day (and perhaps the entire journey) was that on the most fantastic photo op of
the trip, I had left the memory stick in my computer and so couldn't take pictures. See Pictures by Dawn
About Tsring, our guide. He is a 28
year-old Tibetan. This may be the last
year that he is a guide as he does not have
a Chinese Guide license for which he
must speak Chinese. When he was twelve
years old, his grandfather sent him on his
own to India where he lived for six years
at which time he returned to Tibet for his
grandfather's funeral; since then he has
not been able to leave. He lives with his
parents and supports his sister's college
education in Chengdu,China. He has
always been controlled by either his
grandfather or his father who decide for
him what he will do. His father will decide
what he will do next year when he is no
longer working as a guide. He is very
bright, taking philosophy and English at
college in the evenings and yet appears to
have no future.
year-old Tibetan. This may be the last
year that he is a guide as he does not have
a Chinese Guide license for which he
must speak Chinese. When he was twelve
years old, his grandfather sent him on his
own to India where he lived for six years
at which time he returned to Tibet for his
grandfather's funeral; since then he has
not been able to leave. He lives with his
parents and supports his sister's college
education in Chengdu,China. He has
always been controlled by either his
grandfather or his father who decide for
him what he will do. His father will decide
what he will do next year when he is no
longer working as a guide. He is very
bright, taking philosophy and English at
college in the evenings and yet appears to
have no future.
He believes that his grandfather has
been reincarnated in the eastern part
of Tibet and would like to find him.
He, also, believes that he will be
reincarnated and wants to go to one
of the religious people who can
predict what will happen to him, but
his parents do not want him to do
this. He wanted to be a monk, and
probably should have been, but as
the only male in the family that
avenue was closed to him. He must
be able to take care of his parents.
He is caught between the old and the
new and doesn't seem to belong
either place. He struck me as a shell
of a person with a crushed and
damaged soul. He is resigned to his
life and seems to hold few dreams or
hopes. It is really quite sad.
been reincarnated in the eastern part
of Tibet and would like to find him.
He, also, believes that he will be
reincarnated and wants to go to one
of the religious people who can
predict what will happen to him, but
his parents do not want him to do
this. He wanted to be a monk, and
probably should have been, but as
the only male in the family that
avenue was closed to him. He must
be able to take care of his parents.
He is caught between the old and the
new and doesn't seem to belong
either place. He struck me as a shell
of a person with a crushed and
damaged soul. He is resigned to his
life and seems to hold few dreams or
hopes. It is really quite sad.
| CHINA 2002 |
| LHASA, TIBET PART III |
Going up the mountain was frightening. It was a dirt road, steep with 30 or more
sharp switchbacks, foggy, virtually no shoulder, snowy, icy and narrow. If tires
slipped or any mishap occurred the plunge down was hundreds of feet. I just ended
up praying, leaving safety in God's hands. Mr. Tashi, unfazed by the conditions,
with eyes stoically fixed on the road, just kept going.
We finally arrived at the Monastery and it was awesome to see as it perched high
up on the mountain, surrounded by clouds and mist. Many, many pilgrims were
there.We went into the great hall at prayer time for the monks. They were sitting
on red pillows with their rolls of scripture--all reading out loud. It was eerie and
strange to the ear.
There were more buddhas and one of the two golden thrones in Tibet. A separate
room held the great coffin of Tsongkhapa, the high lama who founded the
monastery in the 14th century. It is the "home of the future buddha." At one time it
was one of the most important monasteries in Tibet; however, it was virtually
destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Recently parts of it have been rebuilt and
incredibly these sections look like they are very old and authentic. One can see how
expansive it was by remnants of buildings covering the mountainside.. At one time
there were 5000 monks; now there are 300. Gold is everywhere!
sharp switchbacks, foggy, virtually no shoulder, snowy, icy and narrow. If tires
slipped or any mishap occurred the plunge down was hundreds of feet. I just ended
up praying, leaving safety in God's hands. Mr. Tashi, unfazed by the conditions,
with eyes stoically fixed on the road, just kept going.
We finally arrived at the Monastery and it was awesome to see as it perched high
up on the mountain, surrounded by clouds and mist. Many, many pilgrims were
there.We went into the great hall at prayer time for the monks. They were sitting
on red pillows with their rolls of scripture--all reading out loud. It was eerie and
strange to the ear.
There were more buddhas and one of the two golden thrones in Tibet. A separate
room held the great coffin of Tsongkhapa, the high lama who founded the
monastery in the 14th century. It is the "home of the future buddha." At one time it
was one of the most important monasteries in Tibet; however, it was virtually
destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Recently parts of it have been rebuilt and
incredibly these sections look like they are very old and authentic. One can see how
expansive it was by remnants of buildings covering the mountainside.. At one time
there were 5000 monks; now there are 300. Gold is everywhere!
