it makes an easy day trip and can be combined with
other destinations. This was a new exploration for us
and it was a cold, grey, rainy, dreary Sunday but through
the rain and mist, a special ambiance developed.
Sometimes it is good to move from sun-drenched stones
to the loneliness of deserted paths and alleys. But
still--old men congregated in the piazza and children
ran and played there.
given a ticket on a rainy Sunday with no one
around-- for not using the little parking disc you
place on your dash board to show the time you
parked. Our Italian friends were astonished!
as this was another place we had always left for another time.
Our plan was to see the view, the walls and the castle high on
the hill but the rain and fog were so intense that the little lady
at the ticket place kindly told us we would be wasting our
money. So we trekked back down the path. But--the effort was
not lost as when we drove down the hill, we spied a little grotto
restaurant that seemed to be doing a great business. We
parked in the mud, gathered our umbrellas and presented
ourselves. It was alive inside with a kids' soccer team
celebrating and having a team party--just like at home;
families having Sunday dinner; waiters rushing around with
seafood and pizza and noise galore. Then--our little
ambassador Casey made great friends with our very busy
waiter and so we were not forgotten in the crush of locals. We
had a good time.
store. We had been invited to dinner with Elena, Nico and their
children--Sofia and Filippo. Casey and Sofia appear to adore each
other and each had been anxiously awaiting the reunion this year.
The day we arrived, it took a few minutes to forget their shyness at
seeing each other again but by the time we had dinner a few nights
later they were inseparable. Who knows what the future will bring and
if speaking different language is a true boundary.
the haunting remains of the romanesque Sant' Antimo Abbey. The abbey,
founded by Charlemagne in the 8th century, sits alone in the midst of
green cypress trees and fields--its beautiful design of straight lines and
curved walls with its small but imposing tower is built of travertine
marble. The interior is stunning in its simplicity and seeming
translucence and the central crucifix draws your breath away as you look
on the sorrow and pain and aloneness seen in this Christ.
Monks still hold daily services in the abbey and their chanting can be
heard at several scheduled times during the day. The sounds stay with
you long after you leave. It is well worth checking their website to plan
your visit so that you can hear this haunting music.
This is a complex with a much larger religious community than Sant' Antimo and
is a center for spiritual retreat. The traveler includes this destination for its
beautiful location and celebrated frescoes and cloisters.
Unfortunately, because we did not do our homework or plan well, we haven't seen
these as the church is closed from 12:30 - 3 PM. But, we were able to go in a side
door of the chapel to watch and listen as the monks held their midday service and
worshipped through their chants. We felt very fortunate.
We wandered the wooded grounds, saw mausoleums and ate at the charming and
very good upstairs restaurant. The food was excellently prepared and very good.
(There is a bar downstairs which serves panini and light food; however, upstairs is
a small, attractive, quiet, peaceful restaurant. The woman who waits on you is
delightful.
Abbazia di Monte Oliveto around 11:00. This
gives you time to enter the church and cloisters,
wander at leisure and then watch and listen to the
monks at their noon service. Then, have lunch at
the abbey restaurant. From there drive to Sant'
Antimo, arriving a little prior to 3 PM which will
allow you to sit in the abbey to listen to the end of
the service and chanting there. This is over at 3
PM. After that you can enjoy the church and
simple grounds. As Sant' Antimo is small, you
will not spend much time there. If your routing is
such, you can go to and explore Montalcino after
this visit.
I mention this because this is another of our
recommendations. If you are want fun and good food, this
is the place.
struck when my computer would not fire up--and--we
were not able to get it fixed, even in Rome. Since I
download, label and file pictures nightly and keep my
journal electronically, I was not so very happy--but,
what can you do? Remember the time before
computers and digitals? There I was--in the dark
ages. Thank goodness for places that burn to disc!
wandering becomes a highlight, where quality pottery is found, where dining well is not a
problem (but, then, where in Italy is that not true)?, where visiting the underground city of
ages past beckons, and where climbing down, down 248 steps to the bottom of a well--and
back up 248 steps substitutes for 48 Hour Fitness, there is the magnificent cathedral with
Lucas Signorelli's incomparable frescoes of the Last Judgement. And--that is why we
return.
While tickets are not needed to enter the cathedral, you must have tickets to enter the
Cappella Nuova (New Chapel) where the incredible cycle of frescoes is found. Be sure to
get tickets before you enter the cathedral or you will need to backtrack. You get the tickets
across from the cathedral in one of the little souvenir shops
amount of time studying the faces
and juxtaposition of figures in
this masterpiece. Note: Be sure to
take binoculars with you in order
to fully appreciate the detail of
expression and activity depicted.
Unfortunately, the benches that
were there which allowed you to
sit and try to absorb what you
were seeing have been removed.
It is much more difficult to stand
with your back curved and your
head tilted as you study the
scene. I guess this is a measure to
keep the room less filled.
a beautiful but expensive restaurant. The food is wonderful and the service
impeccable--quite elegant for a lunch stop or even for dinner. Elena, our
friend in Montepulciano, had recommended this to us. And-I recommend it
to you if you enjoy exceptional food and don't mind paying the price for it.
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